The French Riviera is well known for being a playground for the rich and famous with prices to match. Whether you’re young or retired, on a tight budget or not, it’s always nice to feel like you have options when and how to spend your hard-earned money. Having sailed this popular area for the past three years and visited most of the ports and anchorages along the way, we think we’ve discovered the secrets to enjoying life on board without worrying about marina fees eating up your money. budget. In this article we explore between La Ciotat Y Canes on the Western Riviera.
Tip 1 – Make sure you have a good anchor and a decent boat.
We have a large heavy 25kg CQR/Plough anchor at the bow of our yacht with 35 meters of chain and another 40 meters of strong thick rope attached. When positioned correctly it will hold up well in most conditions and you can be sure to leave your boat anchored for a trip to land. We also have an aluminum Danforth anchor as a secondary anchor and have used it very successfully as a stern anchor to hold us up against the wind and swell which makes some nights much more comfortable. How to choose an anchor? Research your area, the appropriate anchor types for that area, and what weight is recommended for your boat. Some of our boating friends use the new ‘paddle’ anchor and wear it. Well worth the investment, it goes back to bed if it ever gets upset and everyone has a quiet night at anchor.
One of the joys of being in a marina is that you can get off your boat, ready for dinner, without worrying about the water having an adverse effect on your clothes or hair! With a good stiff-bottomed dinghy, and of course a good rudder, you can also arrive dry and presentable for dinner from an anchored ship.
Tip 2: Choose your marinas wisely
Follow the advice of your fellow sailors. Whether it’s from online sources, almanacs, or pilot guides, people who have been there before are a valuable source of information. Very often the more expensive marinas have poor facilities but a brilliant free anchorage just outside. Most French marinas include water and electricity in their prices, so fill up your tanks and charge your batteries while you’re there.
Best Value Marinas (prices based on a 15 meter sailboat)
- La Ciotat – a well kept secret with good security, good showers, boatyard nearby that will fill gas cylinders, wifi, very helpful staff, some of the best seafood on the Riviera in lovely harborside restaurants, approx £25 a night all year .
- Sainte-Maxime – very helpful and friendly staff, gas available at the sail shop on the quay, good provisions and restaurants, very good local services, ferry to St Tropez approx £50 a night in high season.
- Port de la Figueirette: A careful approach to the port is needed as depths are limited. Outside of August, mooring at fuel dock overnight for a small charge. Good provisions, nice family beach with non-motorized water sports, good restaurants.
- Port of Cannes – Although it is one of the largest ports and the most popular places on the Riviera, Cannes is one of the few marinas that you can book in advance by email and their prices are extremely reasonable, only £50 a night. Excellent facilities, provisions, shelter and helpful staff. A great place to base the boat while exploring the interior. Beware of loud late-night parties in high season at the Palais de Festivals.
Tip 3: Secure Anchors
Choosing anchorages carefully is vital and most depend on wind direction or swell. Follow forecasts carefully, as well as local information and advice.
- Porquerolles: A beautiful island worth exploring on foot or by bike. Anchor in a large area outside the small marina, or in a bay, moorish creek, on the north side of the west end of the island, marked by a black and yellow cardinal buoy.
- L’Estagnol: A beautiful horseshoe-shaped bay west of Brégançon with white sands and shallow waters. Surrounded by forest and well protected from most winds, the calm, crystal clear waters are perfect for snorkelling. A restaurant of the same name offers delicious lunches throughout the summer just behind the beach.
- Baie des Canebiers: the perfect antidote to the bustling city of St Tropez. Anchor outside of St Tropez for the day and take the boat into town, but when you’re ready to sleep, move a couple of miles around the corner for the best night’s sleep. Good stamina, beautiful views, quiet and efficiently out of the south swell.
- North of Port Grimaud harbor wall – very good hold, sandy bottom, easy access to Port Grimaud by boat, not so good in strong local winds but sheltered from southerly swell.
- Rade d’Agay – You can pick up a buoy here for a small charge, but you can also drop anchor at selected locations outside of protected areas. Good stamina, can be deep, calm at night but quite open to the swell.
- Théoule sur Mer – North of the harbor entrance offers a great location opposite beachside apartments retailing for around £900,000. Charming French resort with a good range of restaurants, facilities and sports including boat jousting!
- Lérins Islands: South-east of Cannes, a beautiful nature reserve with several anchorages suitable for shelter from most winds. A restaurant on each island offers expensive lunches, but Sainte Marguerite also has a few bars and pizzerias for tourists. Don’t be discouraged in high season by the number of boats – they will all go home by sunset, leaving you alone.
Food and wine:
When you find a large supermarket, like in Cannes, stock up on dry groceries and fill your cellar. Small marinas and anchorages can give you beautiful views, peace, quiet, and a free night’s sleep, but local shops will charge you the dirt for basic provisions.
Eating out: Look for the busy restaurants filled with locals. If you’re not sure where to go, ask at the marina on other boats and at the office. They are always happy to recommend somewhere within your price range.
Keep an eye on the weather:
Always keep an eye on the local weather as well as the long-term forecast. The weather around the Riviera can be very local, 30 knots west in Cannes, 0 knots in Antibes and 25 knots east in Nice all at the same time! If you see Mistral or Tramontane wind warnings, do further research with your nearest marina and plan ahead to take shelter. These winds only last a day or so, but it’s worth paying for a safe spot for your peace of mind. Make the most of the situation and take the opportunity to stock up, refuel, recharge and explore further on dry land.